flâneur: “from the French masculine noun flâneur—which has the basic meanings of "stroller", "lounger", "saunterer", "loafer"… or "a person who walks the city in order to experience it". (wiki.com)
la flâness: sexier, female version of the above.Archive for March 30, 2010
Dusty Roads to Zacatecas – and Falling into the Nook
My morning transfer in Durango was a breeze, especially considering I was pretty much sill awake from the day before.
But on this (less-crowded, slightly slower, less winding, less bumpy) trip I was finally able to ge some sleep. Five hours, and… GO! Though, after a fews days (and not quite enough ime to suffice my beach-lust entirely) I was freezing in the higher altitudes as we got further from Durango!
I only openned my eyes a few time to peek out at the dusty norteño towns we were passing. The looked quaint, standing as they were is the very dry, only slightly hilly land. I got out at the Fresnillo stop – it looked just too Western not to! Like in the movies!! And I kind of wished I would stop there for a few days just to see what on earth was there! But I figured, being alone as I was, and it being as… well, smallish and dusty-ish and enirely devoid of travellers… as cool as that sounds… that I`d get bored rather quickly and shouldn`t bother. Maybe one day!
It was mostly women and children on my bus for the first few hours; I was the only one for the hour or so.
After all this travel inward – ie. away from my beloved coast! – pulling into the seemingly sleepy hills of Zacatecas was rather disappointing. Another colonial city; more winding cobblestone streets. And it`s cold! “Blah!“ was all I could think. I contemplated ditching my bag at the station, wandering for the day, and catching anoher (16-hour!) bus to Veracruz on the Gulf Coast that night.
But my cab driver assured me I would slip in to Zac`s easy and comfortable nook before long. It was Semana Santa, after all, and time for the city`s biggest cultural festival! (How did I not know??!!) There would apparently be “shows of all kinds, day and night, arts and entertainment, and not to mention big parties!“ And had I “heard about the Cabaretas?“ he asked me. These are the Mescal-bearing Mules that are available for rent in the nights… because it is illegal to carry alcohol in the streets here in Zacatecas, these donkeys can do it for you! What a tempting thought! I contemplated staying.
This contemplation was finalized the moment I waslked into Hostel Villa Colonial (Primero de Mayo, 201)! It was so immediately welcoming – its bookshelves, it`s little overhead lounge-nook with a TV, the awesome owner at the front desk who showed me around… a massive rooftop terrace, a nice kitchen and unlimited coffee. I loved it! It would be the perfect place to chill out for a couple days and do some writing, reading and picture uploading, before heading over the the Gulf Coast.
I was bedless for the better half of the morning, however (I`d gotten there fairly early and those from the nigh before had yet to clear out)… so I took the opportunity to tiredly wander through town (try to get in the nook), and grab couple staples at the mercado (market). It dawned on me for the first time since I`d been in México that – though I love them dearly – I may enjoy something other than veggie tacos for supper that evening. And for lunch.
The streets were packed with people, though I had a feeling the festival hadn`t really started up yet. Gorgeous cafes terraced in floor, after floor of old buildings were bustling by the main cathedral around the corner from my hostel, and the plazas were packed with the most artsy-fashionable ciy people I`d seen in México yet! I was impressed at all the women walking he cobblestones in heels (and missed my own at home so badly…). There were dozens of silver shops, and outdoor stands for souvenirs, books, and dulces regionales (HUGE in the entire West of México!) everywhere.
My grocery trip was a success! The Zacatecas market was my fave yet! I picked up a round of papaya, mago, pineapple and blackberries (umm, all in season!??) outside, then headed in for some bulk granola, almonds, pecans, and cranberries for snacks… and yogurt for brekky. I bypassed the amazingly fresh, outdoor fish section (which appeared to be fresher than the stinky fish market in seaside Mazatlan), mostly ou of laziness, and picked up a bag of fresh-cut cactus to sir fry up and have with the other veggies and tortillas I`d brought with me from Mazatlan yesterday. And some canned tuna for good measure.
Terrace – coffee - nap. Then I`d check out a bit more of Zacatecas.
